normandy

Geoff backed down and three point turned in the narrow chateau driveway successfully and we had an interesting drive through the misty countryside.

We went to Bayeux to see the tapestry, a 70m embroidery of the treachery of Harold and the subsequent invasion of England of the nominated heir, William. It is a stunning work of embroidery and of history.

A quick evening walk around Honfleur and we discovered throngs of other tourists. So far we have seen a beautiful old port and medieval lanes. Later - we found that the inner harbours have lock gates to provide deep water mooring so boats don't have to wait for the tide to go out. In the vieux bassin is an old red fishing boat with flags and old nets draped around– very picturesque. We wondered if the Chamber of Commerce pays for it, or the artists on the quays. We have taken so many photos in various lights we may be able to make a whole book.

We drove to Pont Audemer about 20 kms away. It was first recorded in 1032 as a market town. There were tanneries, so also many canals. Some canals had street lights on them. There were a lot of half timbered buildings of pale blue and brown as well as some black.

We did a driving tour out of the Michelin book of the south bank of the Seine. We did the tour of Pont Audemer yesterday, so continued today. We did take a side road to a viewpoint which, with plaques gave a picture of the marshes along the Seine, and how this meandering river has changed course. On an island in 1330 the monastery disappeared and the island became connected to the opposite bank. A lot of marshes have been drained for farmland or nature reserve. We drove through villages of thatched cottages with plants along the ridge of the building. After doing enough of the tour, we crossed the river on a ferry [free], to the ruins of Jumiege, a 7th century monastery rebuilt in the 10thC after destruction by the Vikings. 19th C architects called Jumiege “the most beautiful ruins in France” and they are stunning. The nave of the church, 27m still stands. We took another ferry cutting off a huge meander.

At dinner we both ordered bouillabaisse normand, then decided we would like to try calvados [cider brandy] with our dessert of mousse au chocolat. With the calvados was also delivered two glasses of pommeau [2/3 apple juice, 1/3 brandy]. The calvados being 40%, tasted of pure alcohol. When we walked out the waitress shook our hands in farewell.

We drove to Trouville and Deauville, just down the coast. We parked [remembered that it was pay parking when we were having coffee], had a walk up and down the street and looked at the boats lying on the mud waiting for the tide to come in. The seagulls were doing well crab hunting.

So we got back into the car and drove to Deauville and found it was just over the bridge! [we could have used up our 1€ parking ticket. Deaville is a far more fashionable resort with stunning buildings [early 20th C “seaside architecture”], and designer shops. We walked along the planches [boardwalk], past the wide expanse of sand, past the Soleil Bar, the place to be seen especially that this week is the American Film Festival, past a group of people waiting outside a marquee with a blue carpet. Through town and back to the car, where we found we had no more coins to pay the machine so decided to go back to Villerville for lunch. Nice lunch in the village, then thought we would drive to the church we could see for a better look at the stone roofed steeple. We should have walked. The town had tall buildings and narrow one way streets, one of them going the wrong way. We found a pay parking at the bottom of the town. A few people were searching for the pay machine. We all gave up. Villerville is a seaside resort so we walked to the sea. The tide was in and there was a “fine view of the oil refineries on the estuary” to quote the guide. We didn't get any closer to the church and it's romanesque steeple.

When we drove out of Honfleur there was a thick sea mist. We were lucky to have had two bright sunny days. When we got to the top of the Pont de Normandie on our way to Etretat we were above the mist. the shingle beach at Etretat looked pretty with the boats winched up on the rise. They now have a electric winch. The Channel was very flat and six sailing boats with blue and white sails were manoeuvring with orders being shouted from a red boat. We walked halfway up the limestone cliffs for a better view of the rock formations.

It was a long drive [stop at Frecamp for lunch, market], to Lyons-la-Forêt, with quite a few u-turns. The road we wanted may be D1034, but in the town it will change to D43 with no signs. You have to know the system.

Most towns and villages have impressive flower plantings in boxes and on light poles. Someone will go around in a small truck with a water tank and water the plants with a log pole and trim off the dead flowers. Lyons-la-Forêt is a 4 village fleurie and has four red flowers on a sign under the town sign – a bit like tidy towns competition. Their flowers were particularly well done.

We went into the Tourist Info to find out about accommodation, “everything is probably booked out – its the weekend and people come here from Paris for weddings”. The two hotels were full - back to the Office. “Oh, you are Australian, my niece lives in Sydney, would you like me to phone for you?

A chambre d'hote was in the same street. The B & B was in a two-storied, half-timbered building with a large house and garden behind. The half-timbered building was the oldest in the village - 16th C. In some small rooms the timber was visible on the inside, but in most of the rooms painted panelling covered the walls. The timber building had been a relais for diligences/coaches The owner was born on the property and now lived in the big house in the garden. There was a large halle/wooden market place in the town square. This one had a second story where they were showing an art exhibition up a set of steep stairs. When we went back in the evening the stairs had disappeared. Pulled up out of the way instead of having a door.

We drove north towards Picardy, stopping at La Ferté-St-Samson to look at the Bray Buttonhole/Bray Boutonniere a geological hollow in the countryside. We climbed a hillock by the church and could see a broad view of the countryside laid out below us.